Abel Tasman National Park

We didn't spend long in Nelson before deciding to move up Tasman Bay to Motueka, a smaller, cute little town close to the entrace of Abel Tasman National Park. We stayed at the Laughing Kiwi, a true backpacker place, rather than a campground in order to spend some time talking to people other than ourselves! We ended up hanging out with lawyers (from Australia) and medical students (from Britain). How much like home!

The weather remained mixed for a few days in Motueka so we did a day trip/drive up the coast through Kaitieri and Marahau to the start of the Abel Tasman coastal track. When the weather cleared, we drove through Takaka, into Golden Bay, and into the heart of the Abel Tasman national park to Totaranui campground. Remote and isolated are how I would describe it. The only way into the campground is along a 20 km windy dirt road that narrows to one lane in several places. We're told that tour buses sometimes make the trip, and that motorhomes regularly come to the campground in summer, but I honestly have trouble believing that they can make the corners. The drive was worth it, though, as we emerged onto a long, golden beach that was completely empty. At the height of summer, there can be over 800 tents, campers, vans, etc. packed into Totaranui campground. There might have been 3 when we were there, counting us.

We parked the Spaceship (campervan) at Totaranui and from there did a day trip south to Awaroa inlet, which empties almost completely at low tide allowing trampers to cross twice a day. We returned to Totaranui that night, and were able to have a nice dinner and wine, with only the Sandflies to bother us. The next day we went north from Totaranui through several amazing beaches, to Separation Point, over to Whariwharangi on Golden Bay, and back over Gibbs Hill, a nice little 405m hill that provides spectacular views of both Tasman Bay and Golden Bay. Although we did day trips, we ended up tramping most of the coastal track, while avoiding water taxis and the need to stay in DOC huts (which make sleeping in the campervan look luxurious).

From Totaranui, we headed back to 'civilization' and stayed on Pohara Beach (another long stretch of golden sand) in Golden Bay for one night before going to Paynes Ford to climb.

I'll let Adam post on Paynes, but I will say that I didn't really climb although I still got hurt - not on a wall but on one of the access trails to the cliff. We were hiking out and I slipped on a wet, mossy rock and ended up sliding down the trail with my knee under my chin and foot near the opposite ear. It wasn't too bad, but I pulled a hip flexor that has been nagging me for months. And the next morning my back seized up entirely. (I can't even bend to tie my shoes.) I might just be getting old and the two events (fall and back) unrelated, but I don't think so. In any event, it marked the end of Adam's time climbing at Paynes Ford, since I can't even put on a climbing harness much less belay him. We're both hoping I heal fast.

We're now doing the long drive south along the west coast of the south island. There isn't much from here until Wanaka/Queenstown in the southern end except for Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers, where we intend to stop for a couple of days.

Cheers,
R.