Adam and I enjoyed our time in the mountains of Nepal; trekking in the Himalaya was an incredible experience. But once we returned to Kathmandu from the Khumbu/Everest region, we were anxious to return to Bangkok. It had gotten much colder, even in Kathmandu, by mid-
December than it was when we first arrived at the beginning of November -- night-time lows approached freezing in the capital. In a city where very few buildings (our guesthouse included) are heated, that meant being cold much of the time. I was looking forward to roasting in Bangkok's heat and humidity. We also found Kathmandu, and the traveller's ghetto of Thamel in particular, overwhelmingly noisy, dirty and chaotic after the tranquility of the mountains. Horns blare constantly in the streets and pedestrians must constantly avoid kamakaze motorcycles weaving through people and traffic. Everyone wants to sell you something -- pashminas, trinkets, or drugs usually -- and harasses you as you pass. While there is an abundance of choice in the restaurants of Thamel, all the food is mediocre at best, and we usually sought out simple, Nepali and Tibetan food, which became very repetitive, and craved the culinary delights of Thai food. Finally, the fact that Kathmandu was without power more often than not began to wear on us.
Thankfully, after we arrived in Kathmandu, we almost immediately went to the Thai airlines office to change our flight, which was done efficiently and without any charge. (Unlike our flight from BKK to Kathmandu, the return flight to Bangkok was almost empty.) Adam almost jumped for joy right there in the Thai airlines office -- it meant he was four days closer to being back in Bangkok.
We spent our last few days in Nepal catching up on email and internet (when there was power), enjoying 'real' coffee, and doing a bit of sightseeing. We went to one of the largest buddhist stupas in the world at Boudha, which is a peaceful haven in a far corner of Kathmandu, and also to one of the holiest Hindu shrines in Nepal at Pashupati, which could not be more different. The complex at Pashupati is chaotic, crawling with monkeys, and teeming with life and death. It is on the banks of the Bagmati River, and is the holiest place in Nepal for Hindus to be cremated. (It is often compared to Varanasi on the Ganges River in India, but in my view, the two complexes are far more different than they are similar.) In fact, the burning ghats, where Hindus are cremated on pyres along side the river, is the biggest draw for tourists to Pashupati. (Sadly, we saw several people photographing and/or filming the ghats as though they were a spectacle, and not the site of someone else's grief.)
The process of getting on our flight from Kathmandu to Bangkok, and the flight itself, was quintessentially Nepali. We arrived at the airport just after 11am, where everyone who was entering the international terminal had to queue up in a single line. There was little order to the line, which moved slowly, and a fair amount of line-jumping. Various Nepali men (who were very clearly not flying anywhere) stood in line, and then gave up their spots near the front, for a small fee of course. The line moved slowly, and eventually we were allowed into the airport, where our bags were x-rayed. After paying a steep departure fee, we got into the Thai airlines check-in line, where we had to wait an interminable length of time (despite being the second in line) because their computer system was down. Once finally checked-in, we escaped the chaotic single departure area to the relative peace and sanctuary of the airport's single restaurant in the Radisson hotel. (Amazingly, a cold Carlsberg really improved Adam's spirits.) When boarding time came, we walked to the gate area, which was little more than a room at the far end of the airport, and then walked out across the tarmac and up the stairs onto the plane. (I had done walk-on boarding for lots of little planes and jets before, but I had never walked up and onto a Boeing 777 like that. It's a big plane ...) Despite boarding on time, we didn't leave on time. The pilot announced that the plane was ready to take-off, and it was the scheduled boarding time, but Kathmandu's air traffic control tower said they had to wait (for other traffic) ... and so we waited. And waited. I found it amusing but unsurprisingly that the Thai airlines staff took pains to explain that they were ready to go on-time, but it was the Nepali airport authorities that were preventing our take-off. In 40 days in Nepal, nothing had ever happened on time or left on time, so why would our departure be any different?
When we arrived in Bangkok, things could not have been more different than from Nepal. Adam and I felt like we had returned to the real world from the moon. That may sound harsh, but its hard to convey how isolated from the modern world we felt towards the end of our time in Nepal. And in stark contrast, Bangkok is a thriving global metropolis, coping with issues common to the rest of the developing world (e.g. poverty, corruption, pollution) but simultaneously indulging in excess and opulence. Before we left Nepal, we managed to find a great deal on a posh hotel in the downtown Sukhumvit district on the internet, (unsprisingly, high-end tourism in Thailand has taken a hit after the airport shut-down.) and we got upgraded when we checked-in, so we had a pretty nice place to stay for our first four nights back in Bangkok. We took advantage of the downtown location to visit the Vietnam embassy and apply for our visas (which couldn't have been done in Canada), window shop in some of the uber-expensive malls, and buy more weather appropriate clothing at the Chatuchak weekend market. We also took advantage of the hotel's rooftop pool/lounge area and nightly happy hour (free beer and snacks).
Halfway through our time in Bangkok, we returned to the old city area and to Lamphu Tree House hotel, where we had stayed before going to Nepal. Not as luxurious as the hotel downtown, but we weren't hard done by at Lamphu either -- the boutique hotel is decorated with teak wood reclaimed from a traditional Thai house. The location near the Grand Palace, Khao San Road, and Chao Phraya River is excellent as well. While staying at Lamphu, we ate lots of cheap street food, found cheap internet to post pictures, and shopped for more cheap clothes. (We donated most of our old cold weather clothes before leaving Nepal, and shipped home to Canada all the cold weather gear that was worth keeping.) One evening we took the boat down the river to Silom (downtown), gawking at the temples and really posh hotels on the river's banks, then had drinks at Sirocco's Sky Bar on the 63rd floor of the State Tower - expensive but worth it for the jaw dropping view. On Christmas Eve, we had an amazing once-in-a-lifetime dinner at Le Normandie, which we will be talking about for years.
Christmas Day was very un-Christmas-y. Adam was sick with the flu, and I ended up running around Bangkok on foot and public transit by myself for much of the day, collecting our passports and visas from the Vietnamese embassy and confirming bus/ferry tickets for our trip to Koh Tao the next day. We had a very low key dinner, as Adam was still sick, then it was off to bed to get some sleep before our very early bus ride the next morning. We were up before 5am to go and catch the bus. I'm pretty sure that's the earliest I've ever gotten out of bed on Boxing Day - I'd never wake up that early to go shopping! But the bus left more-or-less on time and we arrived at the pier in Chumphon just shortly before the ferry departed at 1pm -- perfect timing. The ferry ride to Koh Tao was almost 2 hours -- 2 horrible unbearable hours for me -- in which the catamaran pitched and bobbed and swayed every which way. People all around us were sick. Adam was completely fine, but it I had to put my head down and it was all I could do not to be ill ... Seems the seas are still a little rough this time of year.
We were thrilled to finally arrive on an island and start the warm-weather-paradise part of our trip. We had some initial challenges in finding accomodation, as the weeks over Christmas and New Year's Day are the busiest time on all the Thai islands. Also, I think the days of the $10 bungalow on the beach, which I enjoyed when I travelled to Thailand 8 years ago, are pretty much over. On Koh Tao, and in Haad Sairee (the biggest, 'main' beach) in particular, very little accomodation is right on the beach. Bungalows on the beach or with any kind of ocean view run about $100 Cdn per night, and the budget bungalows (usually in the $30 Cdn range) are at least a block back from the water. But Adam found us something decent for the first night (although nowhere near the ocean), and the next morning we checked into the bungalows provided by his scuba diving school, Scuba Junction. Adam will be doing his open- water certification scuba diver course over the next four days, and most scuba schools offer free or heavily discounted accomodation to their students. Scuba Junction's bungalows aren't posh (no hot water, no shelves or anything for storage, and rock-hard beds), but they're cheap ($7 per day while diving, $15 per day regular) and we're a stones throw from the water ... although I can't actually see it. Adam will be busy all day long doing his course though, and I'll be diving for half the day, so we don't need much more.
Also, while it's the busiest time on Koh Tao, it's not the best. The monsoon has just ended so the seas are rough and the weather is so-so. It poured rain yesterday and threatened to rain today. It's perpetually cloudy. And the mosquitos are fierce. So we might as well be diving or climbing because it's not really sunworshipping weather. (Although the rough seas cause their own problems for diving and rain is no good for climbing). Koh Tao itself isn't going to win any prizes in the beach paradise pageant, due to haphazardand unattractive development along the main beaches. But don't feel too sorry for us. There are lots of cool beach bars to sit and drink fruit shakes at. (we average 2 banana shakes a day.) The food is tasty and reasonably cheap. (I eat about 5 times a day.) And 2 nights ago we had a Thai massage on the beach (for the bargain price of $10). When the mozzies aren't devouring me, the evenings are perfect for long walks on the beach. It's a tough life.
Going forward, after Adam completes his scuba diver course and I've done some diving, the plan is to investigate some of the rock climbing on the island. I'm sure Adam will post all about it once he's done a few days, but he's pretty excited to get back on some rock (granite) after two full months off. I'm not sure how long we'll be on Koh Tao ... it is probably related to how good the
climbing, and the diving, is.
Wishing everyone happy holidays, and a happy New Year!
Robin
[Note: My apologies for the format of the original post, and the re-post, should you receive it again by email. Mobile blogging -- from my iPod -- is not entirely bug-free.]
Monday, December 29, 2008
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Pictures from the Khumbu / Everest Region
Just in time for the holidays, Adam and I have found some fast computers in Bangkok and are posting some pictures on the interweb. Below are some pictures from the Everest trek that I hope you enjoy. Adam has also posted some pictures from New Zealand -- both climbing and non-climbing -- on Facebook. You have to be on Facebook and perhaps a "friend" of Adam's to view them. (I'm sure he won't mind new friend requests ...)
Below is a photo of Adam on the trail between Lobuche and Gorak Shep.
And below is a photo of Adam and Robin at the top of Kala Pattar (5600m) with Everest (the big black peak) and Nuptse (the right peak) in the background.
The Khumbu glacier, which stretches from the base of Everest down the valley (pictured below) is quite magnificent itself. Much of the trail above Lobuche is beside the glacier.
Below is a photo of Everest and the ice fall (where base camp would be during the climbing season), taken from Kala Pattar.
Below is a photo of Adam and I chillin' at the Everest View Hotel in Syangboche, with Everest (centre left) and Ama Dablam (the big peak to the right) in the background.
Above, Mount Everest (left) and Lhotse (right) at sunrise. Below the same panarama at sunset. Taken from Deboche, on the trek up.
Below is a photo of Ama Dablum from the north, taken from the top of Nargarshang Ri (5200m).
We hope you enjoy! Happy holidays.
Robin & Adam
Below is a photo of Adam on the trail between Lobuche and Gorak Shep.
And below is a photo of Adam and Robin at the top of Kala Pattar (5600m) with Everest (the big black peak) and Nuptse (the right peak) in the background.
The Khumbu glacier, which stretches from the base of Everest down the valley (pictured below) is quite magnificent itself. Much of the trail above Lobuche is beside the glacier.
Below is a photo of Everest and the ice fall (where base camp would be during the climbing season), taken from Kala Pattar.
Below is a photo of Adam and I chillin' at the Everest View Hotel in Syangboche, with Everest (centre left) and Ama Dablam (the big peak to the right) in the background.
Above, Mount Everest (left) and Lhotse (right) at sunrise. Below the same panarama at sunset. Taken from Deboche, on the trek up.
Below is a photo of Ama Dablum from the north, taken from the top of Nargarshang Ri (5200m).
We hope you enjoy! Happy holidays.
Robin & Adam
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
From Everest with love....
Actually, I'm writing this post from Kathmandu not Everest...too damn cold!
Robin and I returned yesterday from our trek in the Everest region and one of my first thoughts was "God I hate the sound of car horns!" Up in the Everest region, it is so peaceful and the only sounds you constantly hear are that of yak bells and yak train "drivers"....and of other trekkers hacking up a lung due to the "Khumbu cold".
Seriously though, we had an amazing time in the region. As this was Robin's second time there she was able to provide a limited amount of guiding services which made it a bit easier. Luckily though, it is pretty difficult to get lost as there is really only one main trail.
We arrived in Lukla via airplane and you are treated to a type of landing that one can only find by coming to Everest (to the best of my knowledge). The landing strip at the Lukla airport is built on a mountain slope and therefore built on an angle. In order the land, the pilot must aim the plane downward at a fairly steep angle and at the last moment before contact, lift the nose in order to get the plane pointed uphill. The landing was very smooth and a majority of the passengers gave the pilot a quick applause before we all piled off to get our luggage. Now I say luggage as a majority of the passengers were not "trekkers" who had backpacks for long walks. No! A majority were tourists whose luggage (i.e. suitcases, duffel bags, etc...) would be carried by porters only as far as Namche Bazaar or Tengboche. Once you leave the airport grounds, there are about a hundred people lined at the gates hoping to take on a job as a guide or a porter (or both). We nicknamed this the "gauntlet" and moved past everyone quite quickly so that we may start the trek!
Leaving the town of Lukla we headed off downhill to towards the town of Phakding which is about 2 hours away. [Robin says that "town" might be a bit of an exaggeration ... "village" or "settlement" would be more appropriate.] Lukla sits at approx 2800m and the trail drops quickly to approx 2600m by the time you reach Phakding. We had a quick tea break on the way and then arrived in Phakding for lunch where we had our first real "sticker shock"! After enjoying relatively cheap prices in the Annapurna region, we found out that this is not the case in the Everest region...not by a long shot! I'm going to guess that most prices where 2-3 times that of the Annapurna region. (To be fair, this is because everything, including food, fuel and building supplies for lodges, has to be carried up by porters from Kathmandu or flown into Lukla and then carried up by porters.) After lunch we moved on to Monjo where we spent our first night of the trek.
The next day we began the hike back uphill. The next destination on the trek is Namche and it resides at approx 3400m altitude so you can imagine the uphill battle we faced. Luckily on the way up, we were treated to our first views of Everest and it definitely adds a bit of spring to the step. That spring was quickly broken though as its still a serious slog up the rest of the way and by the time we reached the town, we were toast. We would later find out that a 600m ascent would be a common theme each day! Once past the police checkpoint, we had to find accomodations and after some more climbing, we ended up at the Panorama which is the same lodge where Robin stayed during her first visit. This was a fantastic choice as the room, food and staff were great! Many of the lodge owners in Namche are former climbing Sherpas who have built lodges with their earnings and are very personable with all of their guests. We did a quick walk around the town and then were told of a viewpoint near the army base / national park headquarters (which is an odd combination, to be sure) where we could view Everest and the surrounding mountains. Definitely worth the short walk up and we could see Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and others! Even though we were still 4-5 days away I was getting pretty excited!!
The next morning we went straight uphill to one of Robin's favourite places on the trek, the Everest View Hotel! I definitely have to agree and also consider this one of my favourites now.
This is a 5-star hotel with a view of Everest from every room. This view only costs around $200USD/night (a bit of a difference from our normal price of $3USD/night). We were only there to sit on their terrace, have some tea and relax. We met a couple of Tennesseeans (def: people from Tennessee), Mike and Jamie [thanks for the "kitchen sink"!] and they joined us for a good hour of chillin' in the sun and enjoying the view. Unfortunately, we had to continue otherwise we might have been stuck paying the overnight rate. We continued onto Khumjung and then all the way back downhill to the town of Phunki Tenga (I only mention this town as the name is awesome). From here we had to climb ANOTHER hill and it was (again) a miserable 600m straight up. But upon finally reaching the top 2 hours later, we were rewarded with more views of Everest. We were now in the town of Tengboche where there is a very important Bhuddist monastery. It was unfortunately closed but I would have another chance to view the inside on the way back down.
We opted to continue on to the town of Deboche 15 minutes down the valley, where we found lodging in a brand new lodge, the Rivendell, with killer views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We were able to watch sunset on Everest from the dining room, and watch sunrise on Everest from the comfort (and relative warmth) of our sleeping bags in our rooms. [Robin was a real fan of this, because otherwise she might have been dragged out of bed before 6am and made to stand in the cold and dark.] I need to add that at this point we had joined company with a pair of Australians, Tristan and Kate. We met them on the Annapurna circuit and by chance they flew into Lukla the same day as us. We had stayed in Namche together and would for the rest of this trip, become a foursome. This was a bonus as it meant that Robin and I did not only have each other to talk to.... ;-)
The next day we moved on from Deboche and trekked all the way to Dingboche. At this point in the trek we had moved from 3800m to 4400m and walking was becoming a bit more difficult and the temps were dropping quite a bit as well. The wind was not helping either driving down the daytime temps to close to 0 degrees!! Dingboche is one of two towns (Pheriche is the other)where trekkers tend to spend an acclimatization day in order to rest and prepare for the upcoming assault to Everest. Upon our arrival at the lodge, I decided to relax while Robin went out to explore. This was Robin's first time to this town as she had previously stayed in Pheriche. She was out for a while so when I went outside to spot her, all I heard was "Aaaadam.....Aaaadam..." I finally spotted her...about 100m straight up on a ridge overlooking the town!!! Such a keener....
The next day we opted for what we thought would be casual walk up the same ridge Robin had visited the previous day. It turned out to be a serious hike from 4400m all the way to the summit of Nangarshang peak..at just under 5200M!! But the views are definitely worth it! Ama Dablam, Makalu and Lhotse are staring right back at you!! Going up took about 2.5 hours but going down took a quick 1 hour... we were motivated by the need for FOOOOOOD!!! (We hadn't really planned on a day-long hike.) The rest of the day was a chill day and then we crashed. Sleeping on this trek usually was from 7-7:30pm until 6am the next morning (not including night trips to the toilet.)
Our next destination was Lobuche and this starts with a nice walk to Thukla only to be faced with a short but steep hill. Hills aren't usually too hard but when they start at 4600m altitude, they become a tad harder! We cruised up this one pretty quickly (passing groups who only had day packs to worry about) and at the top is an area with many memorials to fallen climbers (both Western and Sherpa). Its quite a sobering place and we did not spend too long there. The rest of the walk to Lobuche is through a gentle valley and Lobuche itself is a very desolate place located at an oxygen deprived 4950m. I slept only part of the night while Robin did not sleep at all. At altitude, sleep is very difficult to come by for many people.
The next day was by far the most rewarding! We left Lobuche once the sun hit the valley (until then it is a balmy -7 degrees) and began the march to Gorak Shep. This is the final lodging area and it resides midway up the Khumbu Glacier. While walking their, the views of Nuptse are unbelievable and you get your first sight of Kala Patar, which is the best viewpoint of Everest (for the vast majority trekkers anyways). We arrived in Gorak Shep around 10:30 and based on the weather, decided to make an attempt on Kala Patar around noon. The weather was maily clear but with serious wind and clouds could be seen high up on Everest. But a local guide said the views would still be there so off we went.
Ascending Kala Patar is only a 450m endeavour up to 5600m and again, would normally not be so difficult. But when you start that climb at 5150m, its a bit more of a challenge. I will say that I am quite lucky to be part of a very small minority of trekkers who are not affected by altitude. Going up I felt fine and although Robin had a bout of moderate AMS on the Thorong La (on the Annapurna Circuit), she made it up Kala Patar with little problem. I wish I could post a pic in this post but the connections in Kathmandu are SLOW! Looking at the mountains, I couldn't believe what I was seeing! Pictures just do not do justice what you are trying to take it from this viewpoint! Magical is probably the best word I can use to describe the panaroma! All around us are Pumori, Everest, Lhotse (not visible though), Nuptse, Ama Dablam in the distance, the Khumbu Icefall right in front of us and the rest of the glacier tailing away!!!! Everest Base Camp (EBC) is about 300m below Kala Patar and I was contemplating on whether or not to make a morning trip out to it the next day. But my decision was made not to when we saw a MONSTER avalanche rip off the side of the mountain (near the top of the Khumbu Icefall) and tear right into the EBC area. I shudder to think what might have happened if any expeditions had been there but the area was empty as this is not a climbing season. All the same, seeing an avalanche of that size is shocking!
We did not last more than 45 min at the top as the wind was blowing close to 80km/h and it was freezing! But we took quite a few pics and we will post those in Bangkok when we have a better connection.
It took just over an hour to get up but we hauled ass down in about 25 min to the relative warmth of the lodge. That night neither of us really slept due to the altitude but I was also still SO psyched to have been that close to the top of the world! The next morning we sat in the sunroom of the lodge, waited to see if the Nuptse wall would rain more avalances and then we set off back down the trail. Going up took us 7 days but getting back to Lukla took us only 3 days! Descending is much easier and as we were retracing our steps more almost the entire trail, we didn't stop and admire the view too much once we were down past Pheriche. The first night on the way down we stayed in Pangboche (just before Deboche) and the following day we continued all the way Namche. We were quite happy to be back in Namche as it meant an easier time trying to sleep and the food was amazing! The following morning to began our last full day of trekking all the way back to Lukla. This was a painful day as it requires a 600m descent and then a 200m ascent right at the end of the day into Lukla, and lots of up and down in between. (There's no place on the trail that is actually "flat" - it's always at some kind of grade.) Luckily the lodge owner Namche called ahead to a friend in Lukla (who also owned a lodge) and had him confirm that we would be on one of the first flights out of Lukla then next morning. The only condition is that we stay at this friend's lodge. To our delight we arrived in Lukla to find we were on the first flight out (at 7:15am) and this "friend" was another ex-climbing Sherpa who had a fantastic lodge. The next morning he made sure we had breakfast then accompanied us to the airport and made sure we had no problems. What a great way to end the trek...almost...
Although the plane arriving from Kathmandu was a bit late it wasn't too bad. Its the take-off which is the kicker! Upon arrival, I mentioned that the landing is essentially done uphill. Well, the take-off is done downhill!! The plane taxis to the end of the runway and then guns the engines and hard as they will go and then he releases the brake! The plane careens downhill as fast as possible and at the last moment, takes off from the tarmac as the slope disappears down into the valley below! Nothing like a little sports action first thing in the morning....
Sorry for the long post but trying to cram in what we did into a very short post just isn't possible. This was an experience of a lifetime!! From the day Robin and I met, I've been going on and on about getting to Everest and finally I've done that...maybe one day I'll come back and try climbing it!!! Yeah right.... Seriously, the trek to Kala Patar was very special for both of us, and seemed to bring us full circle from the very first day we met.
Now we're off to Bangkok and warm weather. We were able to change our flights and so will be leaving Nepal a bit early (on the 18th) and most likely spending Christmas in BKK before heading off to the islands for some sun, scuba and finally ... more climbing!
Cheers,
Adam [and Robin]
Robin and I returned yesterday from our trek in the Everest region and one of my first thoughts was "God I hate the sound of car horns!" Up in the Everest region, it is so peaceful and the only sounds you constantly hear are that of yak bells and yak train "drivers"....and of other trekkers hacking up a lung due to the "Khumbu cold".
Seriously though, we had an amazing time in the region. As this was Robin's second time there she was able to provide a limited amount of guiding services which made it a bit easier. Luckily though, it is pretty difficult to get lost as there is really only one main trail.
We arrived in Lukla via airplane and you are treated to a type of landing that one can only find by coming to Everest (to the best of my knowledge). The landing strip at the Lukla airport is built on a mountain slope and therefore built on an angle. In order the land, the pilot must aim the plane downward at a fairly steep angle and at the last moment before contact, lift the nose in order to get the plane pointed uphill. The landing was very smooth and a majority of the passengers gave the pilot a quick applause before we all piled off to get our luggage. Now I say luggage as a majority of the passengers were not "trekkers" who had backpacks for long walks. No! A majority were tourists whose luggage (i.e. suitcases, duffel bags, etc...) would be carried by porters only as far as Namche Bazaar or Tengboche. Once you leave the airport grounds, there are about a hundred people lined at the gates hoping to take on a job as a guide or a porter (or both). We nicknamed this the "gauntlet" and moved past everyone quite quickly so that we may start the trek!
Leaving the town of Lukla we headed off downhill to towards the town of Phakding which is about 2 hours away. [Robin says that "town" might be a bit of an exaggeration ... "village" or "settlement" would be more appropriate.] Lukla sits at approx 2800m and the trail drops quickly to approx 2600m by the time you reach Phakding. We had a quick tea break on the way and then arrived in Phakding for lunch where we had our first real "sticker shock"! After enjoying relatively cheap prices in the Annapurna region, we found out that this is not the case in the Everest region...not by a long shot! I'm going to guess that most prices where 2-3 times that of the Annapurna region. (To be fair, this is because everything, including food, fuel and building supplies for lodges, has to be carried up by porters from Kathmandu or flown into Lukla and then carried up by porters.) After lunch we moved on to Monjo where we spent our first night of the trek.
The next day we began the hike back uphill. The next destination on the trek is Namche and it resides at approx 3400m altitude so you can imagine the uphill battle we faced. Luckily on the way up, we were treated to our first views of Everest and it definitely adds a bit of spring to the step. That spring was quickly broken though as its still a serious slog up the rest of the way and by the time we reached the town, we were toast. We would later find out that a 600m ascent would be a common theme each day! Once past the police checkpoint, we had to find accomodations and after some more climbing, we ended up at the Panorama which is the same lodge where Robin stayed during her first visit. This was a fantastic choice as the room, food and staff were great! Many of the lodge owners in Namche are former climbing Sherpas who have built lodges with their earnings and are very personable with all of their guests. We did a quick walk around the town and then were told of a viewpoint near the army base / national park headquarters (which is an odd combination, to be sure) where we could view Everest and the surrounding mountains. Definitely worth the short walk up and we could see Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and others! Even though we were still 4-5 days away I was getting pretty excited!!
The next morning we went straight uphill to one of Robin's favourite places on the trek, the Everest View Hotel! I definitely have to agree and also consider this one of my favourites now.
This is a 5-star hotel with a view of Everest from every room. This view only costs around $200USD/night (a bit of a difference from our normal price of $3USD/night). We were only there to sit on their terrace, have some tea and relax. We met a couple of Tennesseeans (def: people from Tennessee), Mike and Jamie [thanks for the "kitchen sink"!] and they joined us for a good hour of chillin' in the sun and enjoying the view. Unfortunately, we had to continue otherwise we might have been stuck paying the overnight rate. We continued onto Khumjung and then all the way back downhill to the town of Phunki Tenga (I only mention this town as the name is awesome). From here we had to climb ANOTHER hill and it was (again) a miserable 600m straight up. But upon finally reaching the top 2 hours later, we were rewarded with more views of Everest. We were now in the town of Tengboche where there is a very important Bhuddist monastery. It was unfortunately closed but I would have another chance to view the inside on the way back down.
We opted to continue on to the town of Deboche 15 minutes down the valley, where we found lodging in a brand new lodge, the Rivendell, with killer views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We were able to watch sunset on Everest from the dining room, and watch sunrise on Everest from the comfort (and relative warmth) of our sleeping bags in our rooms. [Robin was a real fan of this, because otherwise she might have been dragged out of bed before 6am and made to stand in the cold and dark.] I need to add that at this point we had joined company with a pair of Australians, Tristan and Kate. We met them on the Annapurna circuit and by chance they flew into Lukla the same day as us. We had stayed in Namche together and would for the rest of this trip, become a foursome. This was a bonus as it meant that Robin and I did not only have each other to talk to.... ;-)
The next day we moved on from Deboche and trekked all the way to Dingboche. At this point in the trek we had moved from 3800m to 4400m and walking was becoming a bit more difficult and the temps were dropping quite a bit as well. The wind was not helping either driving down the daytime temps to close to 0 degrees!! Dingboche is one of two towns (Pheriche is the other)where trekkers tend to spend an acclimatization day in order to rest and prepare for the upcoming assault to Everest. Upon our arrival at the lodge, I decided to relax while Robin went out to explore. This was Robin's first time to this town as she had previously stayed in Pheriche. She was out for a while so when I went outside to spot her, all I heard was "Aaaadam.....Aaaadam..." I finally spotted her...about 100m straight up on a ridge overlooking the town!!! Such a keener....
The next day we opted for what we thought would be casual walk up the same ridge Robin had visited the previous day. It turned out to be a serious hike from 4400m all the way to the summit of Nangarshang peak..at just under 5200M!! But the views are definitely worth it! Ama Dablam, Makalu and Lhotse are staring right back at you!! Going up took about 2.5 hours but going down took a quick 1 hour... we were motivated by the need for FOOOOOOD!!! (We hadn't really planned on a day-long hike.) The rest of the day was a chill day and then we crashed. Sleeping on this trek usually was from 7-7:30pm until 6am the next morning (not including night trips to the toilet.)
Our next destination was Lobuche and this starts with a nice walk to Thukla only to be faced with a short but steep hill. Hills aren't usually too hard but when they start at 4600m altitude, they become a tad harder! We cruised up this one pretty quickly (passing groups who only had day packs to worry about) and at the top is an area with many memorials to fallen climbers (both Western and Sherpa). Its quite a sobering place and we did not spend too long there. The rest of the walk to Lobuche is through a gentle valley and Lobuche itself is a very desolate place located at an oxygen deprived 4950m. I slept only part of the night while Robin did not sleep at all. At altitude, sleep is very difficult to come by for many people.
The next day was by far the most rewarding! We left Lobuche once the sun hit the valley (until then it is a balmy -7 degrees) and began the march to Gorak Shep. This is the final lodging area and it resides midway up the Khumbu Glacier. While walking their, the views of Nuptse are unbelievable and you get your first sight of Kala Patar, which is the best viewpoint of Everest (for the vast majority trekkers anyways). We arrived in Gorak Shep around 10:30 and based on the weather, decided to make an attempt on Kala Patar around noon. The weather was maily clear but with serious wind and clouds could be seen high up on Everest. But a local guide said the views would still be there so off we went.
Ascending Kala Patar is only a 450m endeavour up to 5600m and again, would normally not be so difficult. But when you start that climb at 5150m, its a bit more of a challenge. I will say that I am quite lucky to be part of a very small minority of trekkers who are not affected by altitude. Going up I felt fine and although Robin had a bout of moderate AMS on the Thorong La (on the Annapurna Circuit), she made it up Kala Patar with little problem. I wish I could post a pic in this post but the connections in Kathmandu are SLOW! Looking at the mountains, I couldn't believe what I was seeing! Pictures just do not do justice what you are trying to take it from this viewpoint! Magical is probably the best word I can use to describe the panaroma! All around us are Pumori, Everest, Lhotse (not visible though), Nuptse, Ama Dablam in the distance, the Khumbu Icefall right in front of us and the rest of the glacier tailing away!!!! Everest Base Camp (EBC) is about 300m below Kala Patar and I was contemplating on whether or not to make a morning trip out to it the next day. But my decision was made not to when we saw a MONSTER avalanche rip off the side of the mountain (near the top of the Khumbu Icefall) and tear right into the EBC area. I shudder to think what might have happened if any expeditions had been there but the area was empty as this is not a climbing season. All the same, seeing an avalanche of that size is shocking!
We did not last more than 45 min at the top as the wind was blowing close to 80km/h and it was freezing! But we took quite a few pics and we will post those in Bangkok when we have a better connection.
It took just over an hour to get up but we hauled ass down in about 25 min to the relative warmth of the lodge. That night neither of us really slept due to the altitude but I was also still SO psyched to have been that close to the top of the world! The next morning we sat in the sunroom of the lodge, waited to see if the Nuptse wall would rain more avalances and then we set off back down the trail. Going up took us 7 days but getting back to Lukla took us only 3 days! Descending is much easier and as we were retracing our steps more almost the entire trail, we didn't stop and admire the view too much once we were down past Pheriche. The first night on the way down we stayed in Pangboche (just before Deboche) and the following day we continued all the way Namche. We were quite happy to be back in Namche as it meant an easier time trying to sleep and the food was amazing! The following morning to began our last full day of trekking all the way back to Lukla. This was a painful day as it requires a 600m descent and then a 200m ascent right at the end of the day into Lukla, and lots of up and down in between. (There's no place on the trail that is actually "flat" - it's always at some kind of grade.) Luckily the lodge owner Namche called ahead to a friend in Lukla (who also owned a lodge) and had him confirm that we would be on one of the first flights out of Lukla then next morning. The only condition is that we stay at this friend's lodge. To our delight we arrived in Lukla to find we were on the first flight out (at 7:15am) and this "friend" was another ex-climbing Sherpa who had a fantastic lodge. The next morning he made sure we had breakfast then accompanied us to the airport and made sure we had no problems. What a great way to end the trek...almost...
Although the plane arriving from Kathmandu was a bit late it wasn't too bad. Its the take-off which is the kicker! Upon arrival, I mentioned that the landing is essentially done uphill. Well, the take-off is done downhill!! The plane taxis to the end of the runway and then guns the engines and hard as they will go and then he releases the brake! The plane careens downhill as fast as possible and at the last moment, takes off from the tarmac as the slope disappears down into the valley below! Nothing like a little sports action first thing in the morning....
Sorry for the long post but trying to cram in what we did into a very short post just isn't possible. This was an experience of a lifetime!! From the day Robin and I met, I've been going on and on about getting to Everest and finally I've done that...maybe one day I'll come back and try climbing it!!! Yeah right.... Seriously, the trek to Kala Patar was very special for both of us, and seemed to bring us full circle from the very first day we met.
Now we're off to Bangkok and warm weather. We were able to change our flights and so will be leaving Nepal a bit early (on the 18th) and most likely spending Christmas in BKK before heading off to the islands for some sun, scuba and finally ... more climbing!
Cheers,
Adam [and Robin]
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